Sargent Crag Slabs
Alan and I headed up to Sargent Crag Slabs with the Bolt Fund kit to replace the lower off.
The walking decent off the cliff is a SSSI and is not recommended due to the erosion it has created in the past, The BMC local area group made a decision that the dangerous peg abseil station should be replaced with a bolt lower off at the left hand side of the climbs.
Bolt lower offs on mountain rock is a very controversial subject and each decision is talked about and argued at length before a conclusion is made.
In the past there has been an anonymous resistance to the thoughts of the people at these meetings and the bolts have been removed.
Due to the dangerous state of the pegs it is felt that an abseil station is the only safe way forward for this location.
Our methods where quite traditional, we climbed 5 great routes there today - Terminator 2 HVS 5a, Lakeland Cragsman HVS 5a, Aspasia E2 5b, Endurance HVS 5a and Quicksilver E1 5b. The bolting kit was carried on my back seconding Al up Endurance then an eco friendly resin chain and ring lower off was placed in the holes that where there originally.
I hope that this is third time lucky and the lower off is left for the use of everyone.
POSTED: 10th May 2010